Discovering Morocco through its Wine?
Story 5: An unexpected itinerary with precious drops, djinns and friendship
Story 5: January 29, 2021
We have a tradition in our family – when someone has a significant birthday, a surprise trip is planned. On the occasion of my husband’s 50th birthday, I organized a trip to Marrakech. The secret destination was well-kept until after we had boarded the plane. It was only when the pilot made the flight announcement that my husband discovered where we would be celebrating. The look of surprise and joy on his face said it all, and then came the words of excitement - “Morocco?” “Food!” “Spices!” Finally, we could enjoy the anticipation together of visiting what had long been one of our dream destinations.
The arrival at the airport, with its modern and lofty architecture featuring stylized, ornamental Islamic designs, already gave a hint of what was to come. After a drive through busy, palm tree-lined roads with the Atlas Mountains in the distance, we reached the ancient red walls of the Médina.
From there, we continued by foot and wove our way through the small winding streets of this walled-in, historic part of Marrakech. There was magic in the air, and we were lured in by its vibrant sights, sounds and smells. The colorful market stands were filled with alluring spices, fresh fruits and vegetables, and the smell of grilled meat. Our appetites were whet, and we were so ready to explore.
We finally reached our riad – a traditional Medieval townhouse transformed into a charming boutique hotel. We were warmly greeted and welcomed by the smells of rose and mint tea. After a short tour of the hotel and rooftop terrace, we descended the winding steps that led to our room.
It was that last step that changed everything. My husband missed the half-step, and the resulting fall was bad enough to cause a serious fracture. We had said we needed a break, but this was not the type we had planned. Valentine’s Day would not be a romantic dinner for two, but would rather involve doctors, nurses and surgery. Fortunately, the care was exceptional and the surgery went well, but it would be many days before we could safely travel home.
After several nights in the hospital, we returned to our riad in the Médina, the beautiful Riad Noir D’Ivoire. We finally unpacked our bags and settled into a new, much slower, gentler rhythm. The healing could begin. The grand plans for a surprise 50th birthday celebration were definitely put on-hold – getting around the Médina in a wheelchair was unfortunately not an option.
This was when I began to think that sometimes you have to go within when you can’t go out.
We started to explore Marrakech from within the walls of the riad. Reading books like “The Last Storytellers: Tales from the Heart of Morocco” by Richard Hamilton gave us glimpses into folklore and culture. We were given the heartfelt gift of the Koran and were told about the five pillars of Islam. And we learned about djinns or genies, mischievous or benevolent spirits that can guide, possess or haunt.
The architecture told of Andalusian culture. We could only imagine what life was like in these magnificent houses dating back to the middle ages. Centered on open courtyards designed for family life, they provide an oasis from the hot desert sun. A sensuous quiet prevails with the sound of cool water; subtle breezes gently move luscious palms; fragrance permeates every corner with fresh citrus and intoxicating jasmine; and wooden lattice screens keep out the sun and only some whispers and secrets.
Through food, we began to learn about customs and flavors. Did you know that couscous is always served on Fridays, and that each region has its own version? We are already looking forward to tasting more on our next trip.
As the original plans for my husband’s birthday could no longer be kept, I needed to find an alternative. Before traveling, I was surprised to learn that Morocco has a long tradition of winemaking. Our riad also has a unique wine cellar.
When walking by on our first evening back, I saw a flickering light in the cellar – perhaps it was a djinn speaking?
In that moment, I was reminded of this tradition. An introduction to local wines could be a great way to experience this country from within the riad. I had my new plans for the birthday celebration.
WINE TASTING AT RIAD NOIR D’IVOIRE
Our wine tasting adventure began as we were led through one of the courtyards of our riad. Just past the dimly lit pool, we approached a glass-faced room. It was alive with candlelight, soft classical music, and its temperature reflected what the bottles need – a cool and calm environment.
We were warmly welcomed by Abdessamad, the head barkeeper at Noir D’Ivoire. He introduced us to Hicham, a renowned Sommelier from the luxury hotel, La Mamounia, who was brought in just for the occasion. They would be our guides, and we were ready for the journey ahead.
Seated at a small table set up with canapés of Moroccan delights, we took in this modern and inviting space. A long wooden bar displayed wine accessories, and a row of still empty chilled wine buckets had been set up. The walls were lined with bottles of precious drops lit by a chandelier made of upturned wine glasses. On this evening, the lights did not flicker.
Our attention was directed to a circular glass panel set within the floor. With the press of a button, the glass automatically lifted to reveal the opening to an underground room. This was the entrance to the unique wine cellar.
A winding staircase led to the bespoke, open design cellar. I was instructed to carefully descend while my husband, with his broken leg, waited above. With each careful step, the cellar revealed an impressive array of bottles. Our hosts proudly announced that this was one of the best collections in Marrakech. We were slightly tempted by the already-impressive international selection that was still being built out, but what we really wanted was to learn about Morocco and its wine. Hicham, the Sommelier, selected four bottles, and I was guided to carefully “carry the babies” upstairs.
The special birthday celebration, and our journey around Morocco through its wine, began. Each wine was celebrated with a different type of glass and decanting method. From an ornate silver jug to the more commonly used glass decanter, each released the wine’s unique characteristics.
Hicham poetically and playfully referred to this as “waking up the babies.”
We were delighted with the wines made near Casablanca. The Sauvignon blanc by Medallion was fresh and light. The Chardonnays, of Ait Souala Grande Reserve from Zenata and S de Siroua from the Rommani Vineyards, were slightly deeper and rich.
Meknes was often referred to as a winemaking region and is sure to be part of our Birthday Trip 2.0. We tasted a vibrant blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and Vermentino from the nearby Volubilia winery. The winery is also close to Volubilis, an ancient Berber city dating back to the 3rd century BC. This place is filled with layers of history, and ancient Roman ruins still stand there.
Domain de Baccari is already on the itinerary for when we return. Also located in the Meknes region, we were told this winery prides itself on centuries of local skill and knowhow, the highest international standards, and pure passion. We are sure that this will be a taste of terroir and culture like no other. I can already imagine Le Premier de Baccari, a red wine with the aroma of deep berries, peppery spices and notes of violet. Can you?
WINE IN MOROCCO
Morocco may be known for its desert landscapes, but the coastline to the west and the Atlas Mountains to the east allow for microclimates favorable for producing wines. Winemaking in Morocco dates back to before the Phoenician and Roman eras to the country’s Berber origins. During the 7th century, Islamic bans on alcohol led to the decline of this tradition for centuries, and wine production was only revived with the French Protectorate around the turn of the 20th century. With independence in the 1950s, wine production suffered another decline, but this tradition has returned once again. During the 1990s, King Hassan II encouraged French investors and wine experts back to Morocco to revitalize Moroccan wine production. This oenological culture with such a deep history is now alive and well.
With each taste, sip and sentiment shared, the conversation enlivened. We discovered some common passions, which led to a change in the music from Beethoven to Fayrouz. We learned new words in Berber, or Amazigh, from our newfound family, like gouma, meaning brother and oultma, sister.
When our adventure of discovering Morocco through its wine concluded, we continued the birthday celebration with a tasting menu of modern and traditional Moroccan delights in the riad’s restaurant Oban, thanks to Chef Manaf. With more shared drops, and even the gift of song from the staff, we were left with memories to last a lifetime.
Some experiences are planned, others are not. But sometimes, the unexpected can lead to something perhaps more remarkable or profound. We may not have seen the sights of Marrakech, but once again, by sharing worlds through food and drink, we left with friendships that may not have otherwise happened.
And I’ll tell you a secret – there is magic in some of the riads. The djinns may have spoken as they told us the tale of slowing down and going within when you can’t go out. When the lights flickered and the shadows spoke, new stories awoke. We experienced the magic of connection – all from within enclosed walls. Our next trip will be far richer because of that, thanks to our new friends, shared bottles of precious drops, and maybe even the djinns.
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SOME INSPIRING LINKS FOR YOU
La Mamounia: www.mamounia.com
Here you can find Hicham Ait Omat, Sommelier
Riad Noir d’Ivoire: www.noir-d-ivoire.com
Here you can find Abdessamad Jebbari, Mixologist and Bar Manager, and Chef Manaf El Bloul
Spotify Playlist: Morocco Sounds on Spotify
Sounds of Morocco on Radio Garden: Radio Atbir
Radio Garden is a great place to travel with sounds from around the world.
We didn’t want pop music – this station gave us the soundtrack for our trip!
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